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Tech Talk Help and advice on technical matters for the DIYer |
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#1
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Okay, Firstly to identify the block you should prepare an mechanic’s extension mirror and a flash light to lit the area and look for the stamp marking of your car designation, for example B10 3.5/1 which would be located on top the flat surfaces of engine block where starter motor will be bolted to the opening on engine block.
Secondly, after determining that the block is Alpina, know we should see if the engine’s head is Alpina as well, reason for this is that many times happened that the head must be rebuilt due to over raved engine, etc…., and many mechanics would do the core exchange for a already rebuilt head or other reasons……., so we should know that. Thirdly, to identifying an Alpina head, you should look for a stamped 5 digit # on the side of the heads facing up just bellow the valve cover between the distributor cap and the breather hose on valve cover. And if you sent that # to Alpina it should correspond with car that they used that particular head. Finally, the exhaust should have Alpina stamp and part# on headers, down pipes, on catalytic converter, and the silencer as well as the muffler. The prepuce of this exercise was to provide as much information with the help of other members and making sure when an enthusiast is looking for an Alpina car to purchase, so they could easily identify the real deal. Sia |
#2
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Great post Sia. Now when the auction broker in Japan asks me what I want the inspector to check on the car, I can point him to your post!
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#3
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Lots of good info there Alp1na!!!
Good idea, but I think you would have to get an independent inspector to look for that much detail. I'm pretty sure the inspectors at the auctions will only look for generic things. I could be wrong, but that's what I would guess. |
#4
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All the Alpina from Germany came with the cluster, gear nub, steering wheels as standard items inside the cabin, only BMW Sytner and two other BMW dealer http://www.bmwalpina.co.uk/ww/findad...alpina-hq.html in England would charge to add this item separately since all the items were shipped to Sytner by Alpina to be assembled and accommodate for Britain customers and their cars number would start with 4 digit numbers suck as B10 3.5/1
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#5
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Good point about the cluster AlpinaMan. Correct me if I'm wrong, but codes can be altered on later model cars, e.g., e34 to change or alter the true mileage.
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#6
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Absolutely positively, that is why knowing what to look for is extremely important and also making sure that the service documentation would match to the car mileage with in few thousands KMs, and bear in mind these days you could buy anything from eBay and transplant on any car. Last edited by AlpinaMan; 01-10-2012 at 01:34 PM. |
#7
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Quote:
Another way to verify whether or not an Alpina car is a true Alpina car is to have the VIN checked by the parts department at your BMW dealer. In the ETK, when you enter the last 7 of the BMW VIN, this should come up on a real Alpina car: Quote:
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#8
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The best way to verify the car is the VIN. Most newer ones have WAP VINs with a WBA or WBS VIN crossed out. Run that WBA or WBS at the BMW dealer and the report will always have a line that says the vehicle is for Alpina. I have tested this on a small pile of them. Last edited by KillerPM; 01-11-2012 at 09:09 AM. |
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